After two awesome weeks in Italy, it was time for Aman and I
to move on to “country number 18” on our list, Greece. It was just over thirty-something weeks on the
road at that point, and Aman and I noticed that we had a natural tendency to
get excited whenever moving on to a new country. Even so, we were really, really excited about
moving on to Greece. The country from
which my father immigrated to the United States, I have visited Greece several times
throughout my life and feel a natural bond to the Fatherland. For Aman, Greece was one of the countries on
his “top five” list. Both of us viewed
this particular piece of onward travel as a meaningful milestone of our journey
given how long we had been on the road, as well as what we had been through over the
summer with my knee injury and talks about go or no-go. Both of us were also pretty stoked about
eating spanakopita (spinach pie) and
Greek salads for a couple of weeks. But,
most of all, we were very much looking forward to seeing my parents who
were joining us from the States for ten nights.
When the day came for us to get moving, Aman and I traveled
by train (from Salerno to Rome, Italy), plane (from Italy to Greece), and taxi (from the Greek airport to Athens). A very long day, it was well after midnight and
dark by the time our taxi pulled up to the Makrygianni neighborhood where we
were meeting my parents at an apartment that we had lined up for a couple of nights.
Stepping out of the taxi, Aman and I were
greeted instantly by the heavenly scent of fresh bread wafting out from
the bakery across the street, one of the best in town. Seconds later, my parents emerged from the
shadows of the sidewalk nearby where they had been sitting on the porch and
waiting for our arrival. Despite the
late hour – but thanks to a mixture of excitement, some wine that we had picked
up at a duty-free shop, and jet lag, on my parents’ behalf – we all stayed up
for hours talking. It was a great
first night reunion.
We devoted the entire next day to exploring two must-sees
for anyone who has not visited Athens before: the Acropolis Museum and the Parthenon. A temple dedicated to the goddess Athena
(patron goddess of Athens), the Parthenon sits high above the city of Athens as
the most historically significant building of the Acropolis and ancient Greek
civilization. Conveniently, both the museum and the Parthenon were within a short walking
distance from our apartment. Along the
way, we easily convinced Aman that we should stop for one of my favorite drinks
in the world – Greek frappe coffee. It
took more to convince Aman that the Greeks were responsible for inventing
everything from democracy (true) to the marathon (true) to the word “ok” (not
true). Yes, for those familiar with the
scene from My Big Fat Greek Wedding
where the father tries explaining to his young daughter and the daughter’s
friend that the root of every word comes from the Greek language, well, that is not too far off from my own memories of childhood.
Aman and Dad, discussing all things Greek over a couple of
frappes:
Me, Mom and Dad, approaching the Acropolis Museum:
The new Acropolis Museum is an Acropolis-focused archaeological
museum that opened its doors to visitors in 2009. Given its relatively recent debut, neither my
parents nor I had ever visited it before, but we had heard its good reviews and
thought that it might be worth checking out together with Aman. Located less than half a kilometer away from
the Acropolis, the museum itself is built on top of an important archaeological
site. Through strategically placed sections
of cutouts and glass flooring, you can see the excavations and ruins beneath
the building when you walk in, which was pretty cool.
In the first upper gallery of the museum are some amazing archaic findings
relating to the Acropolis and other important ancient time periods:
But the main draw of the museum is on the second upper gallery
– designed as a configuration of stainless steel columns laid out in the exact
same dimensions as the ancient pillars of the Parthenon – fifteen along the
sides and eight along each end. The architectural
sculptures of the Parthenon – namely, the metopes and pediments (depicting
various mythological subjects) and the Parthenon frieze (depicting the greatest
festival of the city in honor of the goddess Athena) – unfold as you walk along
the perimeter of the gallery. And, from
the floor-to-ceiling windows of the gallery, you can see the northwest side of
the Parthenon in the distance. It was
all pretty well done, we thought as we wandered among the ancient relics that
provide a glimpse of life, beliefs and traditions in a bygone world.
We saw everything that needed to be seen within the museum
in less than two hours and headed, next, to the Parthenon. Despite the fact that I was still on crutches
and still in a knee brace, I thought I was holding up pretty well and insisted
that I could ascend the rock (or at least, try). But when we approached the turnstile at the
bottom entrance, the ticket taker insisted that I would be far better off
taking the elevator. We agreed that it
made sense to check it out given that the surface of the ground leading up to
the Parthenon is incredibly slippery and uneven and involves somewhat of a good
climb (it was about the same distance from the entrance to the elevator but no
climb). So Aman and I told my parents
that we would meet them at the top and were quickly escorted through a restricted area on
our way to the lift. Previously unaware
that the Acropolis even had an elevator, I am not sure what we were
expecting. Regardless, what we found was
essentially a construction site elevator built onto the side of the rock slab (see picture above). Oh Lord,
I thought. Not to be melodramatic, but
the ride up the rock on this rickety contraption may have been the most terrifying
moment of this trip for me. Our
teen-aged operator of the elevator – who freely, yet shakily, admitted that he himself
was terrified of the thing – did not do much to assuage my fears.
Here I am about to make the snail’s pace crawl straight up
into the air. Not sure whether I am
laughing, screaming or about to cry, but it was probably all three.
My trepidations aside, we made it to the top alive. There, we found my parents waiting and chuckling
about my shock-ridden state. We all
had a good laugh about it and I rallied in time for a photo session, before we took a walk around the ruins.
For
anyone who has never been, the Parthenon was virtually destroyed in 1687 and
has been restored several times since (sometimes better than others;
restoration efforts done in the 19th century were so bad that they caused more
damage than they repaired). It has also been badly damaged by pollution over the years. Currently,
the structure is under serious reconstruction so there are cranes and scaffolds
aplenty. But it is still a marvelous sight, and the views of the sprawling city below are amazing.
Thankfully, the rickety elevator ride down the rock was less
frightening than the ride up. We all
regrouped at the bottom, where it was decided that some food was in order after
the long day of sightseeing. Making our
way back in the direction of our apartment, we stopped along the way at one of
the many tavernas in Makrygianni
serving typical Greek cuisine – bread, salad, appetizers such as tzatziki (yogurt, cucumber, and garlic
dip), melitzanasalata (eggplant dip),
baked dishes such as moussaka or pastitsio, and grilled dishes such as souvlaki. Some of my favorite dishes in the world! Luckily, Aman is pretty fond of Greek food
too. We ate our scrumptious fare and
continued to catch up with my parents before returning to the apartment and
getting ourselves organized for the day ahead, which was scheduled to begin
with a 5:40 a.m. flight from Athens to Limnos, the small island in the Aegean
Sea where my father was born and where our group would spend the following week
together.
Up next: our adventures in three very different Greek isles: Limnos, Mykonos and Santorini.